Crossing the street here goes against all instinct. Look
both ways, see throngs of vehicles coming at you, and walk into them. If you
wait for a break in traffic you’ll wait all day, so you put aside everything
that feels natural, cross your fingers and step off the curb. Motorbikes swerve
around you and in front of you but don't slow down. Buses honk, and in
that case you stop in the middle of the road and wait while cars merge around
you. Turning vehicles absolutely do not yield to pedestrians, and it’s up to
you to pause mid-step for motorbikes, not the other way around. It still
doesn’t make sense to me and I’m amazed more people don’t get hit, but I’m
getting better at striding into traffic without hesitation. And the traffic is
intense. Six million motorbikes for a city of 10 million means the streets are
flooded with them. Honda and Suzuki are making a killing here. Sidewalks exist,
but are used for parking and makeshift restaurants, so we end up
walking single file in the road, inching past fruit carts and balloon salesmen.
We’re also in the small percentage of women that don’t wear a mouth covering,
like the face masks doctors wear, but decorated with animals and patterns. We
were perplexed by this for days. Are they blocking the sun? But then we saw
them at night. Is it because of the recent bird flu outbreak? We were about to
buy our own if that was the case.
Men wear them too, and it turns out they’re because of air pollution. This is
smart, but it’s interesting to us because the air here really doesn’t seem that
polluted and in general Vietnam seems cleaner than many other countries.
Lastly, the people are extremely friendly and helpful. More
than anywhere else I’ve ever visited, (except maybe Jordan). I can’t wait to
come back someday and spend more time touring other cities!
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