Tuesday, October 11, 2011

A day of adventure


Refreshed and ready to explore Vientiane, we set out on a hike through the city to find the Myanmar Embassy and apply for visas.
 ‘Dear Google Maps, though we love you and find your iphone mapping app superior to others, you really need to work on Southeast Asia, especially when it comes to walking directions.’ These were our sentiments as we walked two of the four miles to the embassy, only to find we were far past the “turn” on our map, (the nonexistent turn).  Walking out of our way to get back on track, we again followed our map faithfully, thinking Google couldn’t be wrong twice, as it led us down a dirt path. ‘Hm, this is strange,’ we thought. But the walking directions often lead down paths and through short cuts, so we pressed on. This path, however, led to a house and a dead end, where three dogs ran at us, barking ferociously and attacking my leg. One bit a hole in my brand new Aladdin pants!! I was furious as we trudged back down the path and found our own way on the main road. We were at our destination, according to the blue tracking dot on the map on my phone. But we were not. We were in front of the Embassy of Brunei, and next to the Embassy of Korea. It was only after asking a guard that we found the Union of Myanmar Embassy on a street around the corner. Thank you, Google, for getting us to the other side of the city and in the general right direction, but please, please, work on the details!
There was an old gate leading to the embassy, so we pushed it open and looked around. No security, only a house and a small building. After signing in we walked into the embassy’s waiting room while a pregnant woman in what looked like pajamas gave us forms. All of this seemed very unofficial and strange. She told us our passport pictures were too large, (apparently Myanmar uses a different size than the rest of the world), so we had to walk down the street and have new ones taken at a Kodak shop. Returning 15 minutes later we finished our applications and made a wish that our passports would be safe there for days while we traveled to other cities around Laos. The United States embassy has bullet proof windows and guards, but the Myanmar embassy looked as though anyone could walk in at any time and do whatever they pleased.
Musing over whether or not we would get approved, (the woman asked what we went to school for and said journalism, government and business students rarely get visas…so we said art), we took a local bus outside the city to Buddha Park.

The park, built in 1958, is filled with 200 Buddhist and Hindu statues made of stone and mosaics, all in different positions. Interestingly, a priest who incorporated Hinduism and Buddhism into his practice built the park, and another in Thailand.
Later in the day we walked to COPE, (Cooperative Orthotic and Prosthetic Exercise), an organization that works to provide prosthetics and rehabilitation to those that cannot afford them. Most of the patients are victims of land mines. Lao, like Cambodia, was bombed extensively during and after the Vietnam War, and people still suffer today. In rural areas, children come across mines and do not know what they are, and sometimes adults try to deactivate them themselves because the parts can be sold for large sums of money. We watched a BBC film about a man who came across a landmine and ended up losing his legs, arms and one eye, meaning he could no longer provide for his already extremely poor family. COPE helped him receive prosthetic arms, improving his life and helping his family greatly. Parts of bombs are used in pots and pans, spoons, cups and other household items, so people fail to realize their danger and instead see the practical value, and end up hurting themselves in the process of deactivation. Seeing bombs used as a part of every day life is also dangerous to children, who then perceive them as normal and beneficial, and not as harmful. COPE works to educate children and families about the risks of land mines and proper precautions, and to spread word throughout the world about Laos’ enduring struggle with land mines. After harassing the poor PR woman with questions and taking pictures of everything in the museum in order to remember names and stats, we finally left right at closing time.
We made it to the Golden Stupa, (Pat That Luang Temple), just before sunset. Laos’ national symbol, the tall, shining gold spires are magnificent. The stupa holds the ashes of kings from different dynasties, as well as some monks, and is a symbol of religion and sovereignty in Laos.
At our last stop, the night market, women sell paintings, bags and dresses, while food carts wheel through the crowds hawking potato puffs, fried bananas crepes and other delicious, cheap treats. Each night market we go to is basically the same, with slight twists. Mouse ears and masses in Hanoi, fish massages in Siem Reap and lots of art in Vientiane.

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